Basics Tutorial: Disney Frozen Style Nameplate
Hello guys and welcome to my first tutorial on how I made this Disney’s Frozen style nameplate. I made this nameplate as a small Birthday gift for my niece Grace, who is totally obsessed with the movie.
I am sure there are plenty of other daughters, nieces, sisters and girlfriends out there who would love to have a personalised Frozen style nameplate to stick on their own bedroom doors, or maybe you want to remix it into your own design. So I am going to share my make with you guys and show you how I made it step by step, by looking at the whole process of design to setting up the slicing software and finally looking at the final print quality.
If you would like the very same file for yourself you can find a link to it at the bottom of this post
I used Autodesk 123D Design to make this design, it’s a basic lightweight and free CAD Software which is ideal for beginners. To make this design you will also need to download and install the Ice Kingdom font. Once you have done this we can then crack on with the design.
Step 1 Using 123D Design
Once you have loaded up 123D design and selected New you will brought to an empty grid, this is essentially the build plate of your printer and will contain the design that we will be printing later.
From here we are going to select the Text icon found on the top menu.
Right click with the mouse in the centre of the grid to start typing out the name Grace or any name you wish in the text box. Here I have chosen the font Ice Kingdom that we had installed earlier, if you haven’t installed it yet you will have to install the font and restart 123D Design to be able to use it. I have also chosen a text height of 25.00mm, When you are happy click the OK button to finish this step.
Once you have closed the text dialog box, right-click on your text to bring up a small grey box with a picture of a gear in it
When you mouse over the grey box four more options will pop up beside it, we are going to select the last one Explode.
The text should now look something like the above picture, the letters have now been broken up into individual 2D shapes. From here we can extrude each letter to make it 3D.
Select one of the letters and mouse over the grey box with the picture of the gear again to bring up more options, we are going to select Extrude.
You will now see a small dialog box appear, here you need to enter a value of how high you want to extrude that letter, I have chosen 15.00mm and then hit enter.
Your extruded letter should now look something like this. You now should repeat the extrude process for each letter by selecting each letter and selecting Extrude and entering the same values for each.
Once you have extruded each letter your nameplate should look something like this. We are nearly finished with the design.
We are now going to select the rectangle tool from the top menu.
Draw a rectangle at the base of the nameplate, this is to keep the letters together and provide a flat base for the nameplate to stand upright.
Using the extruding tool again we are going to extrude the rectangle, this will cut away a rectangle shape but if you extrude again it will infill the cut away with a rectangle. I have extruded the rectangle by 10.00mm.
And we are done with the design.
We now need to export the file as a .STL file extension. This file type is used by most 3D printer slicing software.
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Step 2 Using Simplify3D
I am using Simplify3D, It is a slicing software that converts STL files into G-Code. G-code is a set of instructions that the 3D printer hardware uses to produce your print, However Simplify3D comes at a one-off premium price of $149 US, but in my opinion the best slicing software available and gives you a lot of control over your print. You can also find free alternatives of slicing software for free in our Useful Links section.
Once you have loaded up Simplify3D you will need to import the STL file we exported earlier by clicking on the Import button on the left hand side. This will bring up a dialog box, find your STL file and click on open.
Then we are going to click on Edit Process button in the lower left hand side of the screen. Here we can control the parameters of our print by making adjustments to existing settings
First we are going to uncheck Generate Support option as this model will have no overhangs that will require an additional support. We are also going to reduce the Infill percentage, we don’t need the model to be dense however we will need an infill to support the very top layer. I usually choose 20% minimum if the top layers are flat.
Under the Temperature tab we are going to set the Hot End Temperature to 190 degrees celsius as I am printing with a PLA plastic, and no Hot Bed is required for the filament I am going to use. You may need to refer to your filament manufacturer for what you should be printing at. When you are happy with your setting we are going to click on the update profile button and then ok to exit.
We can click on the Prepare to Print button on the very bottom left hand side of the screen.
From the above picture you can see there is an estimated print time of 1 hour 8 mins. I am printing over USB cable so I am going to select “Begin Printing over USB” button to continue. It is also possible at this stage to save your print instructions to an SD card if your printer supports it.
The printer will now start warming up and should start printing shortly. For a more detailed breakdown of whats happening you can click on the Machine Control Panel on the right hand side of the window, it looks like a gear. Here you can monitor and adjust temperatures and fan speeds, watch temperature graphs, and communications with the printer as well as an Emergency Stop button should you need it.
Here is the final print, I am quite pleased with the quality of it despite a slight z-axis wobble that has produced a slight ripple effect. Regardless to that she loved it.
I hope you guys found this tutorial post useful and I plan to do more in the future. If you want to keep up to date future posts then please follow us on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram on the top of the page.
If you wish to download my STL file for yourself, then you can find it on Thingiverse here.
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